Intro
In this blog post I will talk about my fascination with the Calanques and hiking there. I share my favorite calanque walk with you and take you along.
Table of Contents:
A little Calanques general background
The Calanques or as it is officially called in France the Parc National de Calanques (Parc national des Calanques | Site officiel (calanques-parc-national.fr) is a coastal stretch of approximately 25 km between the city outskirts of Marseille and La Ciotat. There are further protected stretches and coastal regions reaching as far as Bandol.
The protected national park was officially opened in 2012 but walking routes have existed many years before. Putting the region under protection has added additional protection to this beautiful place but also complicated the ease of access. The coastal landscape with steep cliffs and azur blue coastal coves and bays is a magnet for tourists that come to hike and enjoy spectacular views.
Rangers and officials patrol certain areas of the Calanques regularly to ensure that dogs cannot run free, the park restrictions are respected and especially in the summer months the risk of fire is always in consideration.
My fascination with the Calanques
There is something for everyone
The Calanques are an important reason for us to have settled in La Ciotat. My most precious memories and relaxation are walks in the Calanques. I love to walk there. There are marked routes that offer walking routes for all levels of sportsmanship. Tours ranging from 60 minutes walking and small distances to longer and more sophisticated tours of 3-5 hours and steep sections that require proper footwear and surefootedness.
Views, weather conditions and food for the soul
The area of the parc national de Calanques spans from the backcountry to the drop off at the coast. What unites walks either in the backdrop towards Mont Puget or along the cliffs high above the sea are spectacular views of the coastline.
in ideal weather conditions you can see as far as Marseille and the Notre-Dame de la Garde. Towards Bandol you can glimpse the Ile des Embiez.
With 300 days of sunshine every year the weather conditions are usually perfect.
There is always an ever so slight breeze of the sea, your companion to ensure that even on hot days you feel comfortable walking. The altitude varies with tours taking you down towards a coastal calanque, where you can refresh yourself with a refreshing swim in the sea when you bring your bathing suit or altering heights as you pass up and down cliffs.
Looking out towards the sea you can watch boats cruising the coast. Fisher boats, sailors or larger commercial vessels.
And if walking is not your favorite pastime you can instead get tickets for a commercial boat trip into the most beautiful Calanques along the coast or day trip with the navette to lÍle Verte.
But for me walking in the Calanques is always food for the soul. It invigorates, calms and satisfies me deeply to walk.
My favorite walk from Cassis to La Ciotat
Come along
For many years when we did not yet own a house of our own but would spend time in my friend Tina’s place in Cassis this walk was what I was looking forward to most.
In my view the best time for hiking is May. Usually after winter and rains in March and April the garrigue can recover from the hot summer months
Garrigue
The vegetation in the coastal region is called garrigue. It is a typical mediterranean formation of plants and species that are highly adapted to the habitat. These plants, mostly small bushes but also low trees are used to very little water, high temperatures in summer with enormous heat and often hit by strong winds (Mistral).
In May when the temperatures have risen and spring is well underway nature miraculously wears its prettiest dress. A burst of colors and varieties of flowers border the stoney path to the left and right. It is breathtakingly beautiful.
Let´s go
Up Chemin du Revestel to the Route de Cretes
We start our journey walking along Chemin du Revestel, after having passed the vineyard Clos Sainte-Madeleine. The small street is bordered by high walls to our left and right and as we move up the inclination we take glimpses of old magnificent manor houses and villas with large gardens. These estates are surrounded by old olive trees and small vineyards. They have been family owned for many centuries and as I marvel about the beauty I also wonder what it must be like, to live there and take breakfast on the first floor terrace and look out towards the sea?
The vines growing along the way are also old grapevines. They blossom all summer to be transformed into Rose.
Route de Cretes and passing into the path towards Cap Canaille
As we wander closer towards the Route de Cretes the path gets steeper and steeper. I have stayed behind with my husband and my friend Tina taking the lead. First drops of sweat appear on my forehead but the beauty of nature and my wandering mind let me forget any effort.
Once we have reached the Route de Cretes we need to walk a small piece of the way on the formal street and move towards the roadside to let cars and cyclists pass. The roadside is lined with flowers in bold colors: pink, blue, yellow.
As we have adopted a steady pace and continue our trip I can feel how the exertion sharpens all my senses. Seeing, smelling, listening. Already can I see the harbor of Cassis with a deep blue sea below, the garrigue emits a spicy smell and the wind makes a small whooshing sound.
Taking the stoney path up the Cap Canaille
We have conquered the serpentines along the Route de Cretes and now take the steep stoney path leading up the Cap Canaille. It is with a height of 362 meters the highest cliff along the coast. The cliff towers prominently over the little village of Cassis and is popular with hikers, tourists that take a road stop and cliff climbers alike. On a beautiful day you can watch climbers arrive with their equipment, and the accompanying rope usually reveals their intention. Sometimes you can also see them hanging in small groups right in the cliffs.
Other identifying marks are the hooks that can be found around the Cap. My husband loves one spot especially where he usually takes a small rest and has his legs hanging over looking down.
Cap Canaille is behind us
We have left the Cap behind us, again my husband is taking the lead, while I stroll leisurely past the cist roses with their crumpled pink petals. I can watch wild bees and other beetles that bury themselves in the intoxicating nectar of the flowers. It is the rich vegetation I can not stop admiring. Rosemary bushes are in bloom and I can smell the rosemary as the sun is slowly getting warmer over the morning. I glimpse the pink flowers of thyme creeping close to the ground and I have to take a break and kneel down to take a sniff and indulge in the aroma of the plant. I can identify wild juniper and oregano. All the herbs that make up the famous Herbes de Provence, grow here in their natural habitat. It is the hardship they have to endure and their natural adaptation to the environment resisting dryness and heat that give them this intense aroma. In May the garrigue is also colored bright yellow by gorse. The medium high bush exudes a distinct sweet smell, adding to the diversity of the landscape.
La Ciotat is our destination
Meanwhile we walked for two hours. Always up and down on a small stoney path usually only wide enough for one person. Sometimes so close to the cliffs and the waters edge that I feel like one of the many seagulls that fly above us and cry every now and then. Breathtaking views around us. Deep blue sky. Shimmering sea. We talk very little, too occupied is each one of us to take in the surrounding beauty. It is then that you can feel your mind and body relax and the soul breath.
Almost there
As we near our destination our heart beat has synchronized with our steps. What at some point of the tour seemed to strain us, has now given way to joy and all the endorphins that our bodies release. We have passed the highest point of our tour and are moving downhill. It is this section of the walk where again I must concentrate. Here I find patches of wild lavender and Spanish lavender. Latter has in its wild form an unruly appearance, the color is deep purple and the petals look somehow plucked and irregular. Both smell intensely and fill the air with aroma.
Soon enough the little wood of pine trees appears and we have almost reached the village outskirts. The Calanques reach right into the first settlements and houses of La Ciotat. It is a very sought area of living and we also were very interested to settle right there. But the opportunity did not arise.
We are quickly moving into the village and passing.
La Ciotat Harbor and a Crepe highlight the trip
It took us three and a half hours to reach the picturesque harbor promenade of La Ciotat. restaurants and small cafes line the way. Tables out on the sideway, people busily gather and engage in conversation. Sunglasses perched on their faces. We join the crowd, wearing our hiking gear but do arouse any attention. Too often do hikers emerge out of the Parc de Calanques to reach the harbor and seek out a restaurant or as we plan to do a Creperie. We choose a table with sunshine and a view of the harbor and sit down. Release our shoelaces and make room in our walking boots. A sweet crepe is now the reward for the strain of our tour. Heavenly!
En retour
As quiet as we have been on our walk, now we chatter animatedly. Did you see this and did you see that? How do we go back to Cassis? Is there a bus or do we take a taxi?
It was wonderful and we will soon repeat it.
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